"This is not India!" Chris exclaims several times as we walk the dusty streets of Leh, capital of the Ladakh autonomous region of the state of Jammu & Kashmir. Culturally and geographically, Leh is closer to Tibet (Buddhist) than to either Jammu (Hindu) or Kashmir (Muslim). The Indian Army is prominently present, though evidently benign. The Army is responsible for road and air connections to the rest of the country.
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