Amritsar travel

Last-minute long-weekend decision to visit Amritsar. We found an overnight train that was timed just right. But there was a curious feature of the train – it offered an un-airconditioned First Class ticket, rather cheap. Well, we would see what it was like. How bad could it be? We arrived at the station early, walked right past our train coach because it was not marked at all, and looked quite old and unkempt.

From 200904Amritsar

Indeed, it was a first-class coach with no air-conditioning, probably built thirty years ago and untouched sinnce then. The ceiling fans were whirring rapidly, unnecessarily in the cool evening. But only 1 of the 4 fan-switches worked. The cabin as spacious, with typical plastic covered berths; but it seemed to have been simply swept, not washed in so many months. The Ticket-Taker (TT) came by, graciously offered to get the mechanic to take care of the fan switches; and told us that no, there were no linens or blankets available for this coach (I even offered to pay something for that, but no…). Quite a shock, but the weather was cooperative, and we appreciated the privacy offered –we could close and latch the door to our compartment. Soon, all of the fans stopped, evidently shut at some master switch. We slept all night, jarred regularly by the train stopping and starting, and occasionally awakened by the chilly air. The train arrived at Amritsar twelve hours later.

From 200904Amritsar

In India’s economy, Amritsar is a relatively prosperous, peaceful, and spacious town. The train station was relatively clean and spacious and well-kept.
Perhaps when the dominant religious and cultural influence – Sikhism – has a strong tradition of charitable hospitality and rectitude, the destitute public do not settle in the train station. Most station platforms and walkways in India also serve as havens and sleeping places for destitute travelers, as it is the safest and cleanest public space. Sikh temples -- Gurdwaras -- are specificially designed to incorporate a soup-kitchen and dormitory for any peaceful person who arrives. Amritsar is the center of the Sikh religion, and thus especially equipped to feed and house the destitute. The Sikh sense of rectitude is reinforced by its explicitly warrior-centered notion of the defense of the faith. The Sikh turban is an iconic identifier of a righteous and fierce soldier. When lost in India, seek the turban for help – an observant Sikh will be trustworthy and helpful. Though the turbans are often a target of jokes, and the plump and preening Punjabi housewife a stereotype in TV sitcoms, that sense of rectitude and honor is also part of the cultural stereotype recognized throughout India.

From 200904Amritsar

Through history, many different societies developed traditions of assigning their children to specific occupations. In the Punjab, families – even Hindu families – traditionally offer their firstborn son to a Sikh military career. He then starts his own family, representing a mix of Sikh and Hindu observance.

From 200904Amritsar