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Thomases in India

Thursday, July 19, 2007

Nubra Valley, high and north

We signed up for a 3-day jeep trek to the Nubra Valley. Joining us were an English couple, Margarita & Jim, and three Irish newly-minted doctors. What a wonderful group!
Our two vehicles drove over the Khardung-La, the Highest Motorable Road In The World, as the many signs announce. Yes indeed, 18000 feet is high and literally breathtaking. Of course, Chris and I had to clamber up the rocks to get even higher -- that's when I really noticed the breathlessness of the altitude!
And it started snowing! By the time we left, an inch of snow was on the ground, and our lowland gringos wearing flipflops and shorts were quite uncomfortable!

The road on either side of the pass, above 17000 feet, is a constant shifting landslide. Army crews are out every day to repair the nightly damage from rockfall and new streams of water. But this is the only road connection to Nubra Valley. Amazing.
The valley is mostly at 3500 meter altitude, and has several oases with long-established (since 1400s) monsteries. We visited two big monsteries, Diskit and Samstemling, where the Dalai Lama was due to visit later in the year.

The remoteness and peacefulness of the landscape is so remarkable. Our last night was at a Ladakhi farmhouse, with really fresh-picked vegetables for dinner and breakfast. The host even got us some locally-brewed wheat-beer (tastes fresh, but not exactly delicious). As we arrived, some army trucks drove by, announcing via loudspeakers about a band-concert to be held in the community center that evening. We walked uphill later, paid our 30 rupees entrance fee, and joined the entire community -- about 250 people -- in a dirt courtyard, watching a rock band lit by two 100-watt bulbs, playing a mix of bollywood and english rock songs, with an occasional Ladakhi song. Several little boys climbed onto the stage and started danging around, to the amusement of all. The band was part of the local militia group, the Ladakh Rangers.
Then, back over the pass -- this time the sky was clear -- and down down down to 3500 meter level of Leh.

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